Each Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.

Samantha Henderson
Samantha Henderson

Elara is a tech journalist and digital strategist with over a decade of experience covering emerging technologies and their impact on society.